And the Earth moved…

Near Glina, by the main road
Entering the city of Petrinja with our van full of supplies. The center has been practically destroyed

There was a 5.2 earthquake in Croatia on December 28th, and a rather devastating one of 6.4 the next day, December 29th. Thankfully there were not so many casualties (only 7), but hundreds of people lost their houses, or their houses are not liveable until reconstruction takes place. On January 13th and 14th we took our first trip to Petrinja, which was the epicenter of the earthquake, to Glina and to the surrounding villages in central Croatia. These are some of the country’s poorest regions, to start with. Our team consisted of three volunteers and we visited 13 families and brought them necessary food and hygiene items. We also spent time listening to their stories and encouraging them, as we quickly found out that the terror of the earthquake and the continued shaking in the following weeks caused a lot of fear, worry and lack of sleep. It is also the area where the war was fought 25 years ago and for many this earthquake revived the trauma of the war. Prayer, encouragement and a listening ear was what people were thankful for the most.

In the village of Mecencani, where the earthquake caused 51 openings, or sinkholes in the ground
A sinkhole we got close to, by the main road

Our second trip happened on January 24th and 25th. We were four volunteers this time and we went to the same area and revisited some of the families from our previous trip and some new ones. We spent time with 16 families in all. We also went to a town called Sunja, where we had painted a mural and had done some projects a couple of years ago. They asked us to bring some food and hygiene items for aid packages that they are making for about 20 to 30 needy families from the area and they needed to restock. We have been collaborating with them for several years now and this created a nice opportunity to help them once again. On this trip we also went to bring aid to Lovca, a small village snowed in in the mountains. We managed to make it with our van until 2 km from the village where we parked, we filled up our back-packs and carried on foot what we could to reach these isolated people, who were so grateful to see us! 

In Petrinja, distributing blankets to people who were forced to leave their homes and now live in trailers and containers
The mural we painted in Hrvatska Kostajnica in the summer of 2019
The mural we painted in Sunja during the summer camp of 2018

in Sunja

As mentioned above, the families were very thankful for the much needed food, hygiene and blankets/other items we brought. They were even more thankful that unlike other volunteers that come to bring aid or help in other ways, we took time to listen to their stories and encourage them, caring not just for their physical needs, but also taking into consideration their whole being, including their mental and spiritual well-being.

Thanks to all of you who have been sponsoring these trips. Your solidarity and generosity moved us so much and all the families we are helping also thank you. We will soon return to that area for more distributions …

On the way to the village of Lovca

Recounting a special week

Enrico Strapparava, from Verona, one of the participants of the international camp “Beyond Borders”, wrote the following diary, with precision, dedication and I would say right from the heart, also sharing several personal impressions. Congratulations Enrico, looking forward to seeing you again!

 

                                                SUNDAY, 4 August

Verona, 2:15 am. Just a few minutes to load the luggage and have our documents checked and we are already on the Flixbus. Our journey (for me and Daniela) starts from here, near the Porta Nuova station. Destination: Rijeka, a crossroad of different stories and cultures. Under this black sky, traffic lights and street lights rise to become our stars.

Arrival in Rijeka at around 10 in the morning, with Daniela and Carla (from Turin), met on the Flixbus during the trip. A few minutes after getting out of the bus, Michael, Anna’s husband, joins us and takes us to what will be our “base” for half a week in Veprinac, a small town not far from Rijeka. Along the way, Michael tells us a little about his work pace during the summer camps organized by the association For a better world: “Lately I have very little time to rest, because as soon as one camp ends, another one starts”. 

Untitled

We arrive home and are warmly welcomed by Anna, Paolo, Irena, Stefano, Alex and Sidney, a new presence in the camp, as well as by Iris, the tender four-legged “guardian” of the place. Emotions flow, between hugs and warm smiles: we already got to know each other during the exciting camp of the previous year.

After lunch, Paolo and Stefano, together with Iris, lead us into the woods behind the house, to show us the pond, a place that Paolo and other volunteers started taking care of since last autumn. Nearby there is a bench and a small wooden statue depicting Jesus. While Iris dives in the pond three times, Paolo explains: “This pond was used already around 250 years ago to provide water for the cattle and the women would wash their laundry here.  In order not to leave it in total neglect, we decided together with the volunteers to take care of this place, cutting the weeds periodically and carrying out other useful activities”.

In the pond there are even turtles and goldfish; Paolo and Stefano had also added water lilies which, unfortunately, as they tell us with regret, were destroyed. Despite this, Paolo is satisfied with the result: “Some local residents have even praised us for this initiative.”

stagno

After an afternoon excursion to a beach near Rijeka with Carla, Daniela, Irena and Stefano, we return home where we get to meet the rest of the volunteers and have dinner together. During this time, I meet old acquaintances from last year’s camp: Francesco, my roommate, nicknamed “Doctor Acca”, Anna Rita, his mother, both from Rome, and Jelena, Francesco’s girlfriend. After dinner, I am approached by Gabriel, a boy from Romania. The peculiarity is that Gabriel is deaf and dumb, but despite this, he is a young man full of enthusiasm who radiates energy and vitality from every pore. Generally, he uses sign language to communicate, but realizing that I don’t know this language, we talked using his phone.

First meeting, half an hour after dinner: we start singing some songs with Anna and Alex, then move on to the presentation of the volunteers, all from different countries. After the presentations, Paolo briefly explains to everyone the program of the week, not without a great dose of humour and camaraderie. The first meeting of the day ends by singing together some songs in Croatian language (and even in a funny and improbable Chinese from the North and South invented by Paolo!) The atmosphere is happy and full of warmth: it seems like we just all ended up in a great family.

And we probably did.

primo incontro                                          

                                          MONDAY, 5 August

 We start our day with the sound of the guitar and Anna’s voice. After breakfast, we all gather for the first meeting of the day. The topic is the Flash Mob Dance: for this purpose we are shown some videos of the one done last year. “What we want to do”, says Alex,  “is a Flash Mob Dance in the center of Rijeka and to try to involve people”. After the explanation, we all gather in the courtyard, where Alex shows us the steps of the dance. We try it just a couple of times and it’s already well on its way.

prove flash mob

After the Flash Mob Dance rehearsal, a second meeting starts. The topic is the Game of Hearts, an interesting game whose goal, Alex explains, is: “To change the way people see the world by doing small acts of love. Through these small deeds  we can try to shake ourselves off from the emotional paralysis that is gripping today’s society”. Alex then poses an interesting question: “We need to start with small things to change the world, because what is the problem of doing things big? Simply that the message gets corrupted”.

workshopGoh

Another important aspect of the game is people’s reactions, vital for the success of the game. During the meeting, we had the chance to listen first hand to the experiences a few volunteers had, while playing the game during the winter camp.

Sydney:  “I really liked establishing a connection with people”

Daniela, visibly moved:  “I felt anxious and was wondering if I was going to be able to do anything. In the end, I gave a woman a flower; as a reaction, she came back with a small gift. It was an extraordinary moment”.

Carla:  “This game makes it possible for  you to do something and not just to think about it. You put yourself to the test in order to overcome distrust towards other people and the fear of rejection“.

Alex adds:  “You can play this game anytime. It’s also important to watch out for ourselves and feel comfortable with the acts of love we choose to do, and not try to do things that are too foreign to our nature.”

Then Anna hands us leaflets with examples of deeds that could be done during the Game of Hearts. Alex suggests that we split into groups of two, preferably teaming up with someone we didn’t yet spend much time with, and discuss ideas to include in the game. I am paired with Lana. She’s a Dutch girl, 19 years old. Together we discuss some ideas for the game: she proposes to give a compliment to a stranger, while I propose to ask her/him how’s life. Another interesting idea is proposed by Sydney, to share the bus ticket with others.

After discussing the ideas, I have a chance to chat a little with Lana. “I would like to study medicine in Utrecht; I wouldn’t have to work in a specific country, but instead I could help people all over the world “, she tells me. Before lunch, Carol (with her sister Veronica singing along in the choruses) plays and sings some songs written by her on the acoustic guitar. “In the future I’m going to publish them on Spotify with the help of my friend and maybe add bass and drums to them“,  she says.

carol Vero

While I was trying to strum on the guitar “Space Oddity”, by David Bowie, I got to talk to Sydney. She comes from New York and works as a graphic designer. She gave me some (fantastic I would say) tips on how to take pictures for this journal. “Involving people is the best way to fix an image. Don’t worry about how the photos are, if they are ugly or so on. In every photo there is always something beautiful“. Furthermore, telling her of the fact that I am writing a sort of report, she adds: “Photos are an added value, they allow us to crystallise  certain little things that we generally tend to forget by writing them only. They help you recover the moment emotionally”.

on the couch

Towards late afternoon the preparations for the Pizza Party begin and I am asked by Paolo to cut the pizzas to be served, which were prepared by him, Stefano and Irena. 68 pizzas are prepared for 51 special guests, the elderly patients coming from Dom Turnić, an institution for people with mental health problems. While Paolo brings out  the pizzas from the oven and I cut them, he explains to me: “This pizza party will be a sort of great meeting between special friends. That’s why we prepare so many pizzas”.

Pizza makers

Between one break and another, while all the guests are busy eating, I am approached by Vajta, “symbolic” director of Dom Turnić, a very nice old man. He whispers with difficulty a few words in Croatian that unfortunately I cannot understand, but during the final greetings he shakes my hand and says, “Thank you and good night”.

Vajta

During  the Pizza Party, Francesco, Carla, Jelena and Veronica were in charge of serving the pizzas, while Anna and Alex welcomed the guests in. Everything happened with perfect synergy, an excellent teamwork. In addition, Gabriel and Sydney entertained guests with a nice mime show.

sydney.png

A few pics from the Pizza Party

Acca

pizzaspizza singing

pizza group

During a break after the Pizza Party, Alexis (from Romania) and Sydney teach me to say my name in sign language and to say “bless you” when a person sneezes. Then I  motion with my hands my name to Gabriel, who reacts with joy. You never stop learning!

                                          TUESDAY, 6 August

We shall overcome” sung by Anna and Alex gives a start to this day. After breakfast, we all gather for the first meeting. Anna and Alex explain the program of the next few days: we will go to Hrvatska Kostajnica, a small town located on the border with Bosnia and divided by it from the river Una, and there we will paint a large mural.

“Many don’t know, but there are two Croatia“,  Anna tells us,  “There is the touristic Croatia, with sun and beaches, and then there is the other Croatia (Inland), with much poverty and problems. We will explore the latter”. She adds: “We will come in contact with people who are still dealing with post-war problems. If we have the chance, we will also take a look at the other side, Bosnia, divided from Croatia by the Una river”.

WhatsApp Image 2019-09-07 at 16.08.39

Anna then shows us some photos of the town, and we are impressed by an old castle that during the war was miraculously spared from the bombing; there are also several buildings pretty much destroyed that will soon be demolished. We are also shown the place where we will paint the mural, exactly under the bridge that leads to Bosnia. Regarding the project, Anna tells us: “Given the technical impossibilities, we will not be able to project the picture like we did last year in Sunja. The design will therefore be minimal, but colours will be fundamental”.

Having said this, Anna enthusiastically shows us a video documenting the activities carried out last year by volunteers in Sunja.  It also briefly talks about the birth of the association “For a better world”  (founded in 1996, initially to distribute food and humanitarian aid in areas afflicted by the Balkan War). Anna also explains that it was in Sunja, in March 2017, that she met Alex during the Civil March for Aleppo. This small town will be one of the destinations of our journey and we will be able to meet the people who last year helped the volunteers decorate the walls of their town. It will therefore be a great meeting, where intense memories will merge with the present. After practising a few more times the Flash Mob Dance, we all head to a beach near Rijeka. This is more or less  a day of relaxation, in preparation for our great journey.

beach

I go for swim with Tjoma and I have a chance to chat a little with him. He tells me that he likes fishing: “I find it relaxing“, he tells me. We both don’t enjoy the cold water and as we slowly dive in, he tells me that he has visited Venice once and how the water was very dirty, which I confirm. On the contrary, here the water is practically clear.

I get to talk a little bit with Veronica and Carol. Veronica was busy talking to Gabriel (through motions, or sign language). She tells me: “It’s not too difficult to learn sign language. Once a sign has been learned it’s difficult to forget it, as this language is mainly based on pointing to the parts of the body or on particular signs and gestures. Before arriving here I had no idea how to do it! ”

Back from the beach, I have a chance to play ping pong with Gabriel. Pure magic. Nobody talks. Only the sound of the bouncing ball and some laughter from Gabriel. It’s amazing how through a game it’s possible to establish a connection without necessarily talking.

After dinner, we all head towards the center of Rijeka. It’s interesting to observe that in this city there’s a mix of wealth and poverty: just a few meters from the center you see public housing, for example. A city that lives some contradictions: while rich girls full of jewels and tourists walk in the streets of the center, among the alleys next to the main walking street you can find street musicians and homeless people with broken shoes. A concrete example of the two Croatia Anna spoke of this morning

                                     THE GAME OF HEARTS

Once we arrive in the central square of Rijeka, we split into two groups,  in order to play  the Game of Hearts: I decide to join the group comprising of Francesco, Jelena, Carla, Daniela, Carol, Veronica, Alexis, Gabriel and Sydney. During this time we have the opportunity to experience different encounters:

  • The first thing I did was to change some euro in kuna: using this as an excuse, I asked the ladies at the exchange office how the day had gone, even though they didn’t say much.

carla.png

  • Carla gave a small paper heart to a little girl down the street.

busker

  •  We stopped to listen to a street musician, left him a few kuna and took time to chat with him.

at fountain

Gabriel improvised a gag and everyone joined in!

acca Jelena

with lady

  •  Taking time to talk with a woman who ended up being alone in her life.

acca carla

We met two Italian tourists and talked with the them about the association, our work and free hugs.

 

Free hugs (photo by Carla Pellegrino)

group GoH

novantenne

  • And finally, we met a friendly ninety-year-old man who spoke Italian and told us about some of his friends who live in Trieste.

                                           

                                            THE FLASH MOB DANCE

We perform the Flash Mob Dance in the very center of town, in main street, four times, amidst the wonder and curiosity of tourists. The reactions of the people were curious: many filmed, but especially all kinds of people joined the dance: children with their families, some tourists, some teenagers and even a man with his dog! As for the involvement of people it was a success!

flash mob1flash mob

 

                                                FREE HUGS

Here too, people’s reactions have been manifold. Some gladly exchanged a hug, others looked at us with suspicion and changed direction. But the most beautiful reactions (in my opinion) were those of the people who initially felt distrust, but who slowly, in a couple of seconds, put aside their initial fears by opening their hearts and sharing the hug.

free hugsfree gugs 1fh4FH3

 

                                        WEDNESDAY, 7 August

This morning the sky was covered with light, grey and rosy clouds. Under this sky we are going to start our journey, after loading the luggage. Destination: Hrvatska Kostajnica. We are divided into two groups, one headed by Paolo and the other by Anna. I get in the van together with Paolo, Anna Rita, Carla, Daniela, Sydney, Francesco, Jelena and Andrea, who joined us the previous evening. Exclusively Italian songs will be the soundtrack of our journey. Conductor: Paolo Alleluia, and main voice Carla Pellegrino, with fury and enthusiasm.

partenza

After traveling for a few hours, we stop at a gas station in Karlovac, now an apparently normal place, but twenty years ago it was anything but quiet. Paolo explains: “During the war, this place marked the boundary line, dividing the Croatian army from the Serbian one. The fields around here were real battlefields. Once the war ended, these surrounding places were full of mines and they were marked by red flags. The prairie below the gas station was practically full of red flags ».

mine fields

At around 20 past 12 we arrive at our destination (with great relief of poor Sydney who suffers from car sickness!), after traveling 4 hours and 20 minutes. Immediately after parking on the bank of the river Una (on the Croatian side), Franjo, head of the Tourism Board of this small town, welcomes us. Tall and sporty, with very short hair, he arrives with his professional bike and leaves us after a while to go for a ride.

Next to the bridge stands an ancient fortress escaped from bombing (the one Anna told us about); on the other side of the river you can see in the distance a mosque and higher up on a hill it’s possible to also see an Orthodox church. While I explore the shore with Alexis I see curious blue insects, a mixture of a butterfly and a dragonfly.

Kostajnica

 

riverriver 1

Moments of leisure by the river 

Una

Swim in the Una river: Alex, Andrea and I decide to challenge the current and cross the river swimming until we almost reach the Bosnian shore. Fantastic experience. After about an hour, Franjo joins us (always with his professional bicycle) and after drying ooff we go with him to the place where we will spend the next two nights. It’s a school with a large gym. During the journey, Franjo tells us: “I completed my university studies in Zagreb, but when I had the opportunity to move elsewhere, I decided to return here. I do not like life in the city ».

school

The school seen from the outside and the gym

gym

After arranging the luggage in the school gym, we follow Franjo to the Čukur mountain. This place hosts a particular monument concerning the Balkan War.

Cukur

It’s made like a sort of large photographic lens damaged by a bullet. It’s dedicated to the memory of Gordan Lederer, a war reporter who was killed here on August the 9th, 1991, by a shot fired by the Serbian side. The bullet in question hit Gordan’s camera lens, killing him. Franjo explains how this monument changes over time: “The hole will expand due to weather conditions. In a few months it will already be different from how you see it now.” Regarding the monument, a series of concrete slabs lead to it, 34 to be precise, like the years of Gordan’s life.

At the end of the slabs, there’s a sort of great epitaph in big letters, dedicated to his memory; among other things, there is also written the name of the documentary that Gordan was filming before he died, (entitled Banijska Praskozorja). Franjo explains that it can be found on the net even with subtitles. He adds: “It is thanks to the Prime Minister of Croatia that we have this monument. In fact he was with Gordan when he was killed, he fought as a soldier”. As far as we know, the soldier who killed Gordan, despite two trials, is still on the loose.

monument.png

foro

After hearing Gordan’s story, Anna asks Franjo to talk a bit about his life, but he replies: “I’m not the right person for this”. However, he explains that he is a national champion in various sports and that he built a gym in Kostajnica,  to be able to train, since there was none, and that he also trains 25 people there. After this suggestive visit, we walk on the bridge that leads to Bosnia. At the customs, while I was taking a picture with Tjoma, a policeman approaches us in a very serious way, telling us not to take photographs, otherwise he would have to seize the material.

After this episode, I go with Paolo, Francesco and Jelena to a bar, where we eat ice cream and have the chance to taste a specialty of the Balkans, some sausages (Ćevapi) served with greasy bread, cooked on the griddle (Lepinja). After the break, we return to the border, cross it and gather just below the bridge: this is the place where the mural will be done. On a small and long wall alongside the bridge, instead, 29 flags will be drawn: those of the countries belonging to the EU, plus the European flag.

Anna drawing

Anna, Alex, Carol, Veronica, Gabriel and Alexis start working on drawing the flags. Sydney and Andrea instead work on the large mural; it’s hard work, since there are no reference points for making preparatory sketches. Franjo comes to watch us during this phase of the work, with his hair shaved! In the end, we manage to finish the drawing successfully.

Carol drawingUntitled

After the preparatory work, we have dinner in a restaurant where we are joined by Filip, who last year had filmed the camp in Sunja.

restaurant

After dinner, we enjoy a relaxing moment on the banks of the Una river, where Josip, also a friend and coworker from Sunja, joins us. In the meantime I spend some time with Sydney, Gabriel, Alexis and Veronica, who communicate with sign language. Alexis, in particular, often translates to us what Gabriel wants to say, while Sydney and Veronica try day after day to learn the sign language. “We’re giving everyone nicknames in sign language,” Alexis tells me. Of very low stature and with a very thin voice, Alexis is a person with a great sense of humor and often improvises songs using sign language. And so, this long day ends here, in the school gym. Another tiring day awaits us!

                                            THURSDAY, 8 August

Today promises to be very demanding: wake up at 5 am, departure for work at 6 am. The reason for all this is that it’s so hot, so it’s better to start working as early as possible when the sun is not so intense.

painting glags

Around 6:45 the work begins: one team works on the flags, while the other one takes care of the large mural. A perfect synergy and great enthusiasm animate the work, under the curious gaze of passers-by. It’s like if a peaceful mine just exploded here, and its sharpnel turned into an explosion of colours that covered a small piece of the walls of this town.

Around mid-morning, Franjo and the mayor, Dalibor Bišćan, who is the youngest mayor in all of Croatia (he is only 29 years old) join us. At one point, a passer-by was irritated by the fact there there was no Serbian flag, so it might get added later (next to the Croatian one, to avoid further discord). We decide to stop at 11:30, when the heat becomes unbearable and we head towards the Municipality building to wash our hands. The morning therefore ends with a packed lunch by the bank of the Una river, in an atmosphere of tiredness and common satisfaction.

heart

During the break, I have the opportunity to take a short boat trip on the river with Franjo, Anna, Alex, Sydney and Tjoma. During the journey, Franjo explains: “Migrants often try to cross the river and some of them can be aggressive. On May the 1st, while I was training on the river, the Bosnian police ordered me to stop immediately, as they had spotted the body of a dead migrant near my position. I had to carry the body over the other side“.

on boat

After the long pause, at around 5 pm we start working again on the mural. Compared to the morning, the weather has changed: big clouds cover the sun and the sky has turned heavy and grey. Just the time to paint the last tile and a storm breaks out at 18 and forces us to interrupt the work, without being able to carry out the final finishing touches. Almost as if a mysterious force told us to stop, as if the mural should remain the way it is.

group heart

group flags

After removing all the paint accumulated on our bodies during the day with a good shower, we head to the same restaurant we were at yesterday, this time also with Josip. However, the atmosphere is different, it’s like a party. We meet a Finnish gentleman who speaks perfectly Italian, because he explains that he lives in Switzerland, in Canton Ticino. As if we were old friends, he warmly welcomes us, even offering us red wine. We sing at the top of our lungs some old Italian songs!

In addition, Carol, Veronica and Tjoma passionately sing two Russian songs (including Kadyusha) and a Ukrainian song, and we close with “Bella ciao”. By popular demand of the other volunteers and of the Finnish gentleman, Carol and Veronica play two songs written by them (the same as a few days before) and get a warm applause. In this atmosphere of victorious celebration, this special day ends, probably the fulcrum of this intense week.

Russian songPaolo singing                                          

                                            FRIDAY, 9 August

Today promises to be different from yesterday, in fact it will be dedicated more to recreational activities. We wake up at 7:30 and after packing, we leave the school and head to have breakfast in the bar Kostarika. There we are joined by Franjo, who hands us a painting depicting the bank of the Una river and a wooden boat of modest size, the work of a local artist.

Painting

After breakfast, we have the chance to admire the work done yesterday and take some photos with Josip. Then we leave Kostajnica and head to Sunja.

mural afar

We arrive in Sunja towards mid-morning. This small town shows quite a different view from the one in Kostajnica; in fact you can still see the holes of the bullets on the walls of the houses and even on the obelisk of the small square of the Town Hall. The wounds of the war do not heal so easily, neither on the walls of the country nor in the hearts of its inhabitants. But the willingness to leave all that violence and misery behind has allowed the people of Sunja to move forward, despite some visible poverty. It is interesting to see a sign hanging outside the door of the Municipality, that prohibits to carry inside firearms, as if to signify that no weapon should circulate here anymore.

We then head to the small square behind the post office to admire the mural painted  last year, in practically perfect conditions. Shortly afterwards we are joined by Josip, who takes pictures of us and with whom we remember together the moments spent last year  while working on the murals, not without emotion.

mural sunja

After seeing again the mural, we meet the president of the Sunja fire brigade association. As he leads us inside the operational station, just behind the square with our mural, he proposes a new collaboration project with the association “For a better world”, for next year. “It would be nice to have San Floriano, the patron saint of the firefighters in Croatia, painted on the station tower,” he says.

After entering the fire station, he shows us the various sections and then invites us to have a drink in the main hall. “Children begin to be educated on how to become firefighters from age 5 through small competitions, for which they are given stamps that build up a curriculum in case one day they want to take this career seriously”. Finally, before saying goodbye, the president gives each of us the emblem of the fire brigade association.

pompieri

Leaving the fire station, I, Anna, Alex, Jelena and Francesco head towards Filip’s house, where we will meet his parents, while the others go for a walk around Sunja. The house stands out from all the others because of its perfect condition, compared to many others around, but especially because it’s all blue, including the roof.

Filipìs house

As soon as we get to the house, 5 little dogs run curiously to meet us, with Marijan, Filip’s father, who in Italian warmly exclaims: “Andiamo! (Let’s go)!”, and welcome us in his house. Marijan was born in Croatia, but when he was very small he moved to Switzerland, where he learned German, only to return to Croatia when the war broke out. Besides Marijan, his wife Višnja also welcomes us. Entering the house, we are immediately made to feel at home, so much so that Marijan offers us his 20-year-old grappa!

Alex Marijan

Since Alex is German, Marijan talks to him all the time (in German), while Višnja tells us that his son Filip will soon marry. She gives us a sort of present, a white angel she made. She also explains some traditions regarding marriage in Croatia: the groom (before getting married) will perform various actions to prove that he is “worthy” of marrying the future bride, such as cutting wood, for example. Another particular custom, which is a kind of joke, is to disguise a person with a wedding dress; the bridegroom will have to try to understand if that person (covered by a veil or with her back turned) is really his bride or not.

At one point Anna mentions to Višnja the fact that I am writing a travel report and invites me to ask her something. I therefore ask her if she can tell us a little about their story. Višnja then tells us some episodes that happened to Marijan during the war. “While working as a policeman, he fell from a tower, breaking his legs. He was taken to the hospital, where he was operated and many screws were set in. When he returned to the hospital to have them removed, he caught a bad infection that turned into a chronic osteomelitis, which forced him to have to take antibiotics all the time”. Višnja also shows us a box containing all the screws that Marijan has had removed over the years.

At this time, Antonio, their foster son, arrives in the house. He plays on the Sunja soccer team. “Over the years, we have fostered many children. We are a very welcoming family. We also collected the dogs and cats from the street. For this reason the community of Sunja sees us as a bit of peculiar people”.

While Alex and Marijan continue to talk, Višnja takes us to the upper part of the house, still under construction, even if the work is almost finished. “Filip and his wife will come and live here. This is why we have built a space for them”. Višnja also invites us into her workshop, located in a house next to them, to show us the bride’s wedding dress, made entirely by her. This interesting visit ends shortly after, with just enough time to take a picture together in the garden. Marijan accompany us out exclaiming (in Italian) a warm “Goodbye!”.

filips family

After leaving Filip’s house, we all meet in the Sunja library, where Jasmina, the library custodian, welcomes us. On the occasion of our arrival, a great banquet was prepared for us. Here in Sunja the spirit of welcome is very strong and gratitude is the predominant feeling towards us. This is demonstrated by the numerous dishes prepared: cold cuts, fried fish, vegetarian nuggets and delicious desserts filled with jam. The banquet officially begins with the arrival of the mayor, who tells us: “It’s nice to have you back with us, you are always welcome here. Since you worked on the murals last year, no young man has left Sunja”.

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After the banquet and after greeting the mayor, we head to the little park opposite the Municipality where Josip organized some games. Here we meet some guys we met last year. One of them, seeing Andrea screams: “I remember you!” And then embraces her warmly.

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Towards the end of the games, Ivan, one of the young people tells us: “What you did last year here in Sunja means a lot to us. It’s nice to know that there are people around who spread a message of peace here in Croatia”.

Then, with a Whattsapp message: “Ok, seeing you again has made me happy, even though we haven’t talked too much. But when I saw what you did here … painting the murals and everything else you did shows us that good people can come from anywhere. Ahaha, when we played those games in the park … God, I don’t know, it’s something I can’t explain but it was positive hahaha. About the young people here … hell … we are dealing with different challenges that can be economic or social or whatever you want to call them. It seems that people do not accept things as they are therefore changing … they become depressed, anxious, angry. This is why people hate each other. So … I hope you can come back again because I’ll be waiting for you with open arms!”

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After saying goodbye to the young people in Sunja, we start heading back for  Veprinac, leaving behind us three days of immense intensity, which our hearts will hardly forget.

                                                         CONCLUSION

And already a week has ended … I find myself again with luggage in my hands but this time to go home, along with Anna Rita, Francesco and Jelena. What can I say about all this? I am satisfied, yes: I met people from different nationalities and I found myself face to face with situations and contexts practically foreign to me in my everyday life. Neither I nor all the other volunteers will have changed the world, of course, but surely we will have made some people happier, even for a few moments. And that’s enough for me: to see someone smile, in a world that is increasingly confused and oppressed by a wide range of problems, is already a small change, a beginning. Because in the end, it’s the small actions, the small gestures, that can trigger the spark needed for change. Here I have collected some testimonies of these incredible days spent together:

 

Carla: “I want to thank everyone, because painting in that position was very difficult. It was very nice, considering also the effort made; I will remember it for life”.

Anna Rita: “Mentally, I felt more connected than usual, although unfortunately I could not participate physically.”

Daniela: “Like Carla, I agree about the difficulties; I wasn’t sure I could do all this.”

Francesco: “There have been several beautiful, touching moments. I particularly appreciated when we sang together in the restaurant in Kostajnica. I also enjoyed the games, because they allowed us to get more in touch with the people of Sunja. I will take this week back to Rome with me”.

Alex: “This time it was different: I knew people better and I felt at ease. There were less strong emotions  but I felt certainly more comfortable than last year”.

Anna: “There were differences between last year and this year. It wasn’t the same. I immediately saw the challenge  ahead and I trusted all the volunteers, despite the difficulties. In Sunja in particular I saw something grow; this is definitely a new beginning “.

Jelena: “I sensed that people in Sunja were really waiting for us. It was beautiful and the banquet prepared for us and the time they offered us are proof of all this. I am very happy to have come into contact with people like you”.

Gabriel: “My life has changed here. Every time I come to this place it’s different. People have accepted me and I am impressed about the curiosity shown for sign language and efforts to communicate with me. I am very surprised”.

Alexis: “I tried to educate the mind so that it did not dominate the heart. But when love manifests itself with its colours, the heart prevails over the mind. I really enjoyed free hugs: it was nice to see how our hearts and those of other people came together”.

Sydney: “It is inspiring to see people from different situations come together and become one family. Thank you all”.

Paolo: “I appreciated each of you for what you did to make this camp great. Those murals were an adventure. I also appreciated how many people tried to communicate with Gabriel, while trying to learn sign language”.

Andrea: “The “Beyond Borders ” week was a real immersion in the complex maze of human relationships. Among different nationalities, ages and cultures, we shared together unforgettable moments of tolerance, friendship and love even with the community that hosted us. In the context of Hrvatska Kostajnica, working like this was even more important, and understanding how the seed of love planted last year in Sunja is expanding into neighbouring lands and areas, still suffering from war. We have all tried together to become active builders of “a better world”, beyond borders. It was wonderful!”

                                                                                                      Verona, 1 September 2019

International Camp “Beyond Borders” 4-10 August 2019 – Part 3

It was important for us, besides our time in Kostajnica,  to also dedicate some to visit Sunja again! Since the first time we passed through it with the Civil March for Aleppo, this place has grown in our hearts. A small town, where small things go a long way and loving connections are treasured. To start with, we were all invited in the firemen station, which was right next to the large mural we painted during last year’s summer camp.  We were proposed the idea to come back next summer to paint a mural on the tower!

We also went to visit various friends, like Filip’s family, who had heard a lot about us.

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The mural we painted last year, still in perfect condition, and a source of inspiration for the town inhabitants!

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Visiting the firemen station

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Another gift, from the mayor of Sunja

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who also offered us a delicious lunch

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and afterwards, everyone went to the park to play some games together with the local youth, organised and actually built for the occasion by Josip.

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Enrico has been faithfully writing an even more detailed journal of our adventure, and I can’t wait to read it! Many thanks to everyone who had a part in it and keep in touch!

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P.S. And here’s some mail from Sunja, starting with a very nice article by Josip

                                        Three fantastic days 

Italy, Austria, Romania, Ukraine, Germany and Croatia (and one volunteer came from the States) are just some of the European countries these sixteen “Better World” volunteers that I have spent three wonderful days with came from. Like last year in our little Sunja, which was enriched with two beautiful murals, this year they also honored the town of Hrvatska Kostajnica by drawing a beautiful mural right next to the bridge, over a very sloping and slippery wall, and the flags of all European Union members on the side wall promenade. Mayor Dalibor Bišćan and President of the Croatian Tourist Board Kostajnica Franjo Žnidarić provided them with accommodation and dinner on the two days they spent in Kostajnica. In addition to painting the mural, the team took a tour of the town, bathed in the Una River, Franjo took them on a boat ride, they sang songs and enjoyed themselves.

On the third day of their stay in our area, they decided to dedicate time to Sunja, who remained in their wonderful memory from last year, where they were kindly welcomed and met a number of our young people, who worked together on our murals. After a welcome, we toured the fire station in Sunja, where next year the plan is to draw a Saint Florian on the tower, and another large mural on another part of the bowling alley. We might also organise a workshop with the kindergarten children and of course have some more fun socializing in the park through games and songs. Sunja-Greda DVD President Ivica Mikulic was delighted with their acceptance of the challenge, offered them a drink and gave each volunteer one knit coat of arms badge. As in Kostajnica, they walked around Sunja as well, and Mayor Grga Dragicevic gave Anna, the head of Per un mondo migliore Association, an enlarged plasticized Sunja poster (my work, I am proud of myself, ha!) that they can frame and hang in their place. After lunch, we went for a two-hour hangout in the park playing some games that I didn’t even know where I was pulling them from, I guess.

Thanks again to the volunteers of “Better World Association”, especially Anna and Alex who have visited us five times already, which is proof that this is not just a one-year story, but an adventure that goes on and on. Thanks also to Dalibor, Mayor of Hrvatska Kostajnica and Grga, Mayor of the Municipality of Sunja for their financial support regarding food and accommodation, and the people who took care of the organizational aspects again, Franjo from Kostajnica and our librarian Jasmina from Sunja. It was wonderful for me to be with you all:  see you in July 2020.

And a message from Jasmina: Hi! I hope that you safely arrived to Rijeka. It was really nice to see you all in Sunja, it’s like you bring some positive energy and wake up us from routine and lethargy. I hope that next year you’ll stay in Sunja longer, to meet more people and spend some more pleasant time together. I hope that everything was ok with your stay in Sunja, we tried to do our best and we really admire you all.

Here’s also a message from Ivan, one of the young people living in Sunja, giving us a further insight :

Seeing you again made me so happy, even though we didn’t talk much.  When I saw what you guys did here, painting on walls and all the rest, it made me realise  that good people can come from anywhere, really.
When we played those games in park … God, I don’t know, it was something I can’t explain but it was so positive!
About the young people here, we face different challenges, they may be financially,  socially whatever you name it.

People can’t seem to accept things how they are so they change, depression and anxiety and anger set in, so I think that’s why people hate each other.
So yeah … i just hope you can come back again because I will be waiting for you with my arms open 🙂🙂

 

 

 

 

International Camp “Beyond Borders” 4-10 August 2019 – Part 2

Right after our visit in Sunja, last summer, we were excited to receive an invitation to engage in some similar activities in a town nearby, called Hrvatska Kostajnica, right on the border with the Republika Srpska of Bosnia.  After a meeting  last May with Franjo Znidaric, the president of the Touristic Board, we were able to plan a couple of days of activities in this beautiful small city by the river Una, that also serves as border between Croatia and Bosnia. Our long time friend in Sunja, Josip Hren, made this great poster in support of our efforts in this neighboring town.

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Excitedly starting our over 4 hours journey from Rijeka to Hrvatska Kostajnica!

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Greetings from  Bosnia! We crossed the border and just walked on the other side of the river Una, for a very short visit.

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Franjo took us to visit the “Broken Landscape”,  a monument dedicated to Gordan Lederer, a young reporter who was killed right here by a sniper on August the 9th, 1991, while filming Croatian soldiers in action. His camera recorded the whole event.

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Time to start planning our two murals: one along the small wall, will depict the 28 flags of the European Union countries.

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The other mural is going to be a lamb, which is the symbol of the town, framed by a colourful heart. As you can see from the picture below, the location itself represented a challenge, thankfully overcome by some of our more agile volunteers.

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We encountered an extremely hot weather, but the sunset was majestic

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The school that kindly let us use their gym and bathrooms for our stay.

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The river Una provided some fun and cooling time

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Enrico, our  faithful “reporter”

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The second day was quite a marathon, starting with an early wake up at 5 am, to beat the heat of the day and have a good start to allow us to finish painting the murals by the evening. During the lunch break, Franjo took us on a breathtaking boat ride along the river! Josip reached us one more time on his bike, with his camera and…a watermelon! We also sang, swam and took time to talk.

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Breakfast time

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Josip came in time to help us with some final touches, before the storm forced us to pack up.

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Filip also came to spend time with us several times, even though he was quite busy with the preparations for his very soon coming wedding.

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After dinner, a round of Italian songs

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A toast to a job well done, and having overcome the several challenges along the way

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Before leaving Kostajnica, Franjo  came with a very special present, a beautiful painting with a special dedication.

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to be continued

 

In Sunja again, and more

In spite of living on and off in Croatia for over 20 years, I had never heard of this small town called Sunja, till the day I passed through it with the Civil March for Aleppo, a brave peace march that happened to also cross that part of Croatia. It was March 2017.

Then in April 2018 I visited again the place with Alex, to meet the volunteers there and prepare the activities for the upcoming summer camp, which happened in July of the same year, and was an amazing experience both for our group of 24 volunteers and for the people of Sunja.

Jasmina, director of the library in Sunja, wrote us saying: “Thank you for choosing to come to Sunja to paint such beautiful murals in our place.

I also want to thank you for all the positive energy, peace, happiness, that you brought in Sunja and that you gave our young people new faith, a new life. You gave Sunja a new spirit.

In Sunja we also also met Filip, a very idealistic and talented young man who made a beautiful video narrating the event.

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So, it was time to visit again, also because in the meantime an invitation came from Franjo, a friend of Filip who works in the Tourist Department in Hrvatska Kostajnica, a very pretty town nearby, right on the border with Bosnia. The idea was to return during the summer with a team of volunteers, for something similar to what was done in Sunja.

So I set out to visit this area for the 4th time.

I was welcomed at the train station by Josip, Filip and Mato. So nice to see them again!

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I stayed at Filip’s house, got to know  Marjan and Visnja, his parents, and enjoyed their wonderful hospitality.

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So nice to see Ivana again, (it was the day of her birthday!) the director of the Bambi kindergarten where one of our murals was painted last summer and is still in top shape

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The other mural is also in top shape. Everyone told me how amazing and unheard of is the fact that no graffiti or scratches have been “added”.

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Visiting another old friend and volunteer, where Alex and I stayed last time: Jelica, here also with Josip, and with Angelka, whom I just got to know.

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And with Josip and Jasmina, the very first people I met in Sunja, pillars in the volunteering work and simply some great friends and coworkers. Here at the library where Jasmina works and often organises cultural events.

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The school were we stayed last summer is undergoing some needed renovation.

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A peak on our mural

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The town still bears many scars from the war, but right next to it…roses are blooming!

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Went by the river Sava, where a ferry runs throughout the day.

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Below, a picture of our first visit to Sunja in March 2017, with the Civil March for Aleppo team, and me right in the same spot, on May 29 2019.

 

Filip took me to  Hrvatska Kostajnica, around 18 km from Sunja, where I finally personally met  Franjo Znidaric, such a great young man very engaged in the betterment of his town. We discussed our visit from the 7 to the  9 of August:  murales, clowntherapy and more.

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The river Una, which for the most part divides Croatia from Bosnia, recently overflowed, causing some damages, even though thankfully not as serious as the ones that happened in May 2014.

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Franjo took us to see what is considered one of the most original and even more beautiful monuments in Croatia: the “Broken Landscape”,  dedicated to Gordan Lederer, a young reporter who was killed right here by a sniper on August the 9th, 1991, while filming Croatian soldiers in action. His camera recorded the whole event.

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An oversized camera lens punctuated by a single bullet hole.

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Leading up to the memorial is a curving pathway made of concrete slabs placed in black steel frames. Designed to resemble film frames, each of these represents a year of Lederer’s life. Needless to say, I was extremely moved by this sight.

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With Jasmina, singing in the rain…

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A short meeting/farewell with Grga Dragičević, mayor of Sunja, right in front of our mural, that on this rainy day was shining even brighter!

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A memorable picture taken when we finished the mural, summer 2018. So, Sunja and Hrvatska Kostajnica: see you soon!

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A surprise Flash Mob Dance – and so contagious!

This year we were not planning on having our traditional Flash Mob Dance during our summer camps. Unfortunately my daughter Jennie, who for these past few years was the teacher and choreographer, was away fighting a tough battle with cancer.

Then, quite unexpectedly, Alex offered to work on a new one. Out of the various suggestions given, he chose 3 songs, which he mixed and then put together a fairly simple choreography so that the steps could be easily learned by just about anybody.

Below: photos of our first practise at the Home and one in the park in Sunja, a city in Croatia close to the border with Bosnia.

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It was a pity that Alex couldn’t stay with us for the following camps, so the challenge to teach the steps was passed on to me, (I know hardly anything about dancing, but I can at least get people to listen and learn) and to my granddaughter Kalyca, who lives in Canada but came to spend the summer here in Croatia. (she definitely knows about dancing).

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But most inspiring was the fact that some of the camp attendants decided to “import” the dance in Italy and so, thanks to Stefania’s initiative, on September the 15th a new group of people she trained performed the dance in square Castello, in Turin. That day happened to be Jennie’s birthday, so the dance was dedicated to her and to her healing.

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Next was Bea, who proposed the Flash Mob Dance to the committee who organised the 12th European Week against Human Trafficking. With the help of Diana, Nicole, Silvia, Greta, Kai and others who participated to our summer camps and already knew the steps, on October the 14th the magic of this dance happened again, in Verona’s main square. Everyone says that their favourite moment is when the two “factions”decide to reconcile and  run to hug one another. This of course sets the stage for the Free Hugs extended to all the people watching or passing by, who hopefully will return home savouring the beauty of this magical moment.

Can we teach, and learn something about peace even with a Flash Mob Dance?

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New encounters of old marchers

 

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Sometimes it’s hard to foresee the snowballing and far reaching effect some encounters might have.

On a fine April morning, I came down to the kitchen and found my friend Laura (Italian) trying to explain something to Alex (German). Italians are known to use their hands to communicate and Laura was trying to use whatever she could find to relay something obviously important to Alex who, later confessed, was quite puzzled and even worried he did something that upset her. None of the sort.

Simply, the night before he showed to a group a friends a presentation of the CMFA (Civil March for Aleppo), of which he had been one of the main contributors, and Laura was so impressed that she couldn’t fall asleep till she made the resolution to organise the same presentation for all the high school students of the area she comes from. She felt they really needed to hear the message, and of course she was trying to ask Alex if he could come and do it, and if I could come along to translate and also to explain how I met the CMFA, about my work in the Balkans etc.

How could we refuse?

Laura and friends worked quite hard to prepare and advertise the events, besides posting flyers everywhere and so the time came that Alex and I met to travel to Imer, one of the towns in the gorgeous valley of Primiero, close to the main city of Trento, in northern Italy. It was a warm October weekend when Laura came to pick us up at the train station, so it took a few months of planning and organising, which for sure paid off.

I must confess that I was slightly worried at the prospect of holding a presentation of 2 hours and 15 minutes for over 500 high school students, gathered in this big theatre from all the towns in the valley. It wasn’t the first time I organised similar events and I usually tried to cut them shorter as these days the young people’s span of attention seems to be so short.

Curiously, Alex saw the thing from a totally opposite point of view: “ What do you mean, only 2 hours? That doesn’t even give us time to cover everything”

And I’m glad to say he was right and I was totally wrong!

The young people followed attentively Alex’s account of the events in his life that led him to leave a nice job and a comfortable life and eventually join the CMFA: his desire to see the world, his trips, studies and experiences in the States, in Hong Kong, in South and North Corea, in Africa, his Civil Service in Colombia, his search for meaning in life and increased awareness of the injustices in the world.

Then we showed a trailer of the CMFA splendidly produced by Janusz Ratecki, a Polish photographer also on the CMFA.

Alex went on to show a collection of photos that one by one covered  all the 11 countries the CMFA walked through, and of course he spiced it up with anecdotes, adventures and all those special, unpredictable things that can happen on a 3500 km long march.

I then took over explaining how I heard about the march on line and followed daily their progress till they reached Croatia, the country I live in and have been working as a volunteer and peace activist for many years. I talked about the day I started walking with them in a village called Lekenik and the emotions I experienced meeting such a colourful crowd of idealistic young people.

At this point we started talking about the impact the march had on many places it went through and particularly about Sunja, a small town in Croatia near the border with Bosnia, visited by the CMFA in March 2017 and that we revisited this summer with 24 volunteers, who painted an immense peace mural, brought clown cheers to an old folks home and performed a Flash Mob Dance in the park. We showed the video that beautifully narrates the experience, made by Filip Drnic-Matkovic, a young man from Sunja who happened to be there watching us and offered to work on it for free.

At the end Alex delivered a powerful closing message to all the young people present:

1. Think critically. When somebody shares their opinion, be open to it, especially when it differs from your own, but ask yourself what assumptions this opinion is based upon.
2. Feel compassion. Everyone is struggling in their own ways, so be compassionate and tolerant even when you feel angry with some you strongly disagree with.
3. Do anything. There’s no one right thing that we all should be doing. But instead of only talking about changing the world, it’s absolutely essential to take that first step of action and you will be amazed what a dynamic of its own this will develop. You will find out what your role in all of this is along the way.

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Below: Laura, the main organiser of the events, with Alex

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Uh, I forgot! To make the presentation more interactive and to make sure no one was falling asleep, we taught everyone a short chant (Power to the people, people got the power, power, power...) and sang it again at the end, as a meaningful good bye and a reminder of the power we all have to change things.

Below: chanting with everyone “Power to the people”

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The evening presentation went also very well. Even though it had been advertised, Laura and Chiara were not expecting too many people to show up, as it was on a Friday night and there were many other events going on in the valley. So they prepared just a few rows of chairs, only to have to keep running to get more, as in the end over 100 people showed up!

This time it was a mature, adult audience but we still kept the basic format from the morning, only adding half way through a personalised rendition of the song “Blowing in the Wind“, sang along by all. I explained how I felt when I met Alex and other young people on the march and found out they knew all the songs I knew and sang in my youth. And more important, that we shared not just the songs, but most of all the ideals behind them. An elder woman, still quite involved in volunteering,  came over at the end of the presentation, visibly touched, and thanked me saying: “The heart never grows old, I saw it again tonight!”

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I want to close with something encouraging we received in the mail as soon as the presentation for the schools was over:

“Alex just came to my school in Italy to talk to us about the march, and I think that you are great people and really admire you for your work. Thank you for bringing faith back into humanity.”

 “This meeting with Alex really made me want to make a difference in the world and participate to marches and events to help people. What you are all doing is going to slowly slowly change the world, thank you so much!”

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Power of the Small People

 

Busy as we were, I don’t think I even noticed him at first. Brushes, cans of paint, people asking me where to find another ladder: this occupied my complete attention. It was July 2018: the small town of Sunja, situated almost at the border between Croatia and Bosnia, was undergoing the peaceful and joyful invasion of 24 volunteers, and I had contributed to that. It was my third time there and here’s the previous articles that tell the story.

Yes, we were attempting to start painting one of our largest murals, when Filip just appeared out of nowhere, with camera and drone. At one point I saw this young man, quietly sitting there in front of our colourful hubbub. With a big smile he asked if he could video or, to be precise, if he could take a time-lapse of us painting the mural. What to say? It was a deep desire of mine to find someone who could do that, but so far nothing had worked out, so it was a very pleasant surprise, to say the least.

At the end, Filip put together an awesome 12 minutes video of our whole 3 days stay in Sunja: 2 murals, a clown therapy outing, a Flash Mob dance in the park and much more.

One of my favorite parts of the video is at the very end, with Filip himself delivering a simple but powerful message to us all: “If there is a single thing I learned from these volunteers in the few hours I spent with them, that would be the power of the small people. They taught me that it’s possible to change the world, but if you want to change the world you need to start with yourself, you have to do some small things, and you will find more people doing small things, and when many small people in a small place do small things, they can change the world.”

 Thank you Filip for being one of those people and freely devoting time and energy to a project that’s already been spreading far and wide. You really captured the magic of those days and the message behind it all. And thank you to everyone who participated, who hosted the activities and made it all possible.

Here’s just a few of the many reactions received so far:

Thanks for sharing! I remember this place very well. Svenja (CMFA)

Wow!!! I just saw now the movie with Sunja. It is soo impressive!!! I love it!!!! Elena

So nice! Greetings from Germany, Damir

Beautiful, thank you so much for coming and sharing good vibes with us and come back again sometimes.  Diana

It is totally inspiring, the way you are capable of cultivating philosophical and ethical environment, connecting with and supporting people and practical doing. Together it somehow makes sense. Thank you for this! Helena (CMFA)

Woow, this is beautiful, you guys are amazing! We are so blessed that we have you guys! I can’t imagine the world without you. Sonia

Filip really captured the moment in this one; I hope to see you again soon. Borko

Very nice, thanks. Rolly

You give amazing love. Ciao Marco

Beautiful! Next year I’ll join you also, Paola

This is amazing! You are incredible and this video made me miss you so much. Sanja

Great video with really good shots from Filip. Franjo

Thanks for the video, it’s amazing to see you what happened since we were in Sunja together!! I remember it was my last day at the Civil March before I went back to Germany. What inspired you to do something there? Antonia (CMFA)

I’m crying again! Amazing job Filip! Thank you so much. You are gifted in telling the stories in this way… I love you and miss you all!!! Andrea

Such a great fortune to run into a guy this talented and this nice in a tiny place like Sunja! And such good times we spent there together:) It really came out so nicely and it takes me right back to these days. Thank you for capturing them in such a beautiful way, Filip!   Alex (CMFA)

Awesome & beautiful work, a sample to all of us, no matter where in the world we are! Susan

Great idea and cool movie! Janusz (CMFA)

Great video and great cause. Thank you for what you are doing!!! Emil (CMFA)

It really touched my heart. Can I share it? Enrica

Just watched it! Really outstanding. In just a few minutes it captured all the joy we experienced. Emanuela

Very well done! 
Thank you so much, Filip. Big hug from Rijeka. Paolo

Such a beautiful video! I was finally able to watch it. A big hug to you all! Margherita

Great video, I really enjoyed watching it. It was such a good idea to make this movie! Can I share it? Carla

Such a beautiful video!! I really had tears in my eyes…you are amazing! Veronika

 

 

    

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

“You have to leave the city of your comfort and go into the wilderness of your intuition. What you’ll discover will be wonderful.” (part 2)

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Waking up in Sunja and walking around with Josip, talking about the town before the war and after, the hardships and the traumatic experiences our friends had to go through as young kids, much like too many are facing now in Syria, Palestine, Africa etc. War is so insane!

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The meeting at the municipality went very well. We showed a video about the Civil March for Aleppo, plus some pics from last year’s visit, when the March passed through the town. Alex thanked everyone once again for welcoming such a big group of marchers and I could see it really meant a lot to come back and share all this with them.

We also talked about coming back this summer with a group of volunteers and organising some activities together with the young people here. Everyone was enthusiastic about it, as there’s very little going on here, so there’s an immense amount of appreciation. The mayor listened intently to the Croatian song Alex and I just learned before this trip, (“Mir usred oluje”/ “Peace in the midst of the storm”), and gave immediately his support and permission: accommodations at the local school and a wall to paint our Peace mural on! It often takes quite a long time to get such permissions.

 

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We will also paint a mural at the local Kindergarten and most of all, we hope to build some more bridges in the process.

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Later on, Josip and Jasmina took us over the border with Bosnia, or better, with Republika Srpska. An overflowing river Una divides the two countries. We were preparing to have a meeting with the principal of the school on the Croatian side of the river, but wanted to also explore a bit on the Bosnian side, which is definitely much bigger and much more upbeat. Quite a paradox, considering that on the Croatian side we are supposed to be in the EU, while it feels indeed like we are still walking in a war zone, with broken down buildings and a general sense of despair pervading the streets, some visible poverty and no apparent future.

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The following morning we met with Susana, the principal of the elementary school in Hrvatska Dubica, and Helga, the German teacher. Walking in the school was like entering a happy garden, sort of an oasis: such a contrast with the rest of the town! We found out that most teachers travel daily from Sisak, the main city over an hour away. Susana is an an explosively radiant and positive woman, the kind who can really make a difference in a place like this. We took time to show the video of the March, who also passed by here last year before crossing the border and also discussed our plans for the summer.

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                           “Life, my friend, is the art of the encounter“.       (Vinicius de Moraes)

Earlier on I wrote that it wasn’t always easy to find a bus, so sometimes we had to hitchhike. This gave us the opportunity to meet cross sections of society and all ethnic groups present on the territory, and to extend unconditional love to all of them. And we got to our destination quite fast!

One day, a man gave us a ride I won’t easily forget. He introduced himself as the president of an association for people who had been prisoners in concentration camps during this last war. He knew the area we were driving through quite well, how many houses were burned down in every village (most of them), how many people were killed, etc.

At one point, without any warning, he swerved the car and took us down a road leading to a rather remote village he wanted to show us, which had been totally destroyed and where many had been killed during the nineties, as the cemetery he took us to see testified. The atmosphere was depressive and intense. The man was talking as if the war was still going on and in fact he mentioned that according to him it could start again. As we departed, he gave us a copy of the book he wrote about the concentration camps run by the Serbs, and I must confess that getting out of the car I felt sick to my stomach, having to translate as much as I could of this gory stuff for Alex, who was sitting in the back, and realizing how much hate and resentment still lingers in these areas, so devastated by ethnic cleansing.

A retired policeman raising sheep gave us the next ride, and it was definitely a lighter experience. Then a Serb farmer stopped, whose house had been destroyed during the war. He had spent some time in Germany, so this time Alex took over with the conversation, giving me a chance to remain quiet. One more ride took us over quite a long stretch and then the cherry on top of the cake, Marjo from Split!

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What a nice man! He told us how he had to go to war when he was only 19, how that robbed him of the best years of his life and left a profound mark on him, even physically. He showed us the scars he had all over his legs and neck, quite a sight. Nevertheless, he had stopped drinking, found himself a girlfriend and was looking at life with a positive attitude. He was so nice to us and we had a long, pleasant ride together. Needless to say, he invited us to his house near Split!

There were other very nice encounters around Rijeka, and here’s some:

Easter Day with our international friends, around 10 nationalities! Nice food, music, laughter and the first presentation of the Civil March for Aleppo, well explained by Alex. At the end of the presentation, two of our friends were so moved that they spontaneously got up to go give Alex a hug!

Visiting Rolly is always a special experience

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Pizza with Lidija

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One last presentation of the Civil March for Aleppo to a team of volunteers from Italy, who also had lots of questions and proposals for future meetings in Italy.

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Last year with a group of marchers, this year just in two people: visiting these areas brings always some results, whether we see it immediately or not.

One positive outcome of this trip is that all is set in Sunja to receive quite a large team of young volunteers during one of the summer camps I help organise with my NGO. It’s appropriately called “Voluntarily, to make a difference”, and it will happen from the 22nd to the 28th of July. Young people from various parts of Italy and Europe will get to meet and work alongside local young people, to bring some extra colour and life to this town, and to establish bridges of hope and friendship. Hopefully, something similar will also work out in the nearby town of Hrvatska Dubica, where we visited the local school.

One of the many responses we received by the Italian young people who will attend this camp, clearly sets the tone for what I know will be a life changing experience for all involved:

I always wanted to attend a summer camp and experience something like this but unfortunately never had the opportunity. In your  video I saw that thanks to your projects people’s lives can really change, both the volunteers and the people you help, even just with a hug or a smile, so I don’t really want to miss this opportunity!

                                                                                                                          Emanuela

I’d like to close with two quotes, by exceptional men who also walked the talk:

Do your little bit of good where you are; it’s those little bits of good put together that overwhelm the world.”  (Desmond Tutu)

“We don’t have to engage in grand, heroic actions to participate in the process of change. Small acts, when multiplied by millions of people, can quietly become a power no government can suppress, a power than can transform the world.” (Howard Zinn)

“You have to leave the city of your comfort and go into the wilderness of your intuition. What you’ll discover will be wonderful.” (part 1)

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It was around a year ago that I joined the Civil March for Aleppo in the spirit of the quote above by Alan Alda. It was an exceptionally brave Peace March that started in Berlin on December 26th of 2016 with the intention of crossing several European countries and eventually entering Syria. After the group had started its journey, I had been following its progress on various social media outlets. Since the marchers were eventually passing through Croatia and Bosnia, (the countries I’ve been working in for over 20 years with my NGO), since in the past I did my fair share of marches and activism, and since my birthday was approaching and I was looking forward to something special, I decided to join them physically, as well! When the time had come, in a small town called Lekenik, I must confess, I had butterflies in my stomach! But it didn’t take long to feel just like one of them, almost part of one big family. While marching I got to know them as highly idealistic, young people, a species I had thought was extinct.

The picture below was taken last year in Sunja, a town in the vicinity of the border to Bosnia, where the Croatian War of Independence (1991-1995) hit hard and its sad marks are still visible, today. At that time I had the chance to talk to a few of the local people and volunteers. I was impressed by their desire to bring about some positive change, so much that I told them: I’ll be back with other volunteers from my NGO and maybe we can engage together in some activities…

Without a doubt, one of the added values of the Civil March for Aleppo was the “seed” scattered along the way, the connections and friendships made with schools, cultural centers and people who helped with the arrangement of accommodations.

 

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Here I was with Josip, Jasmina and Jelica, who have been dedicating much of their time and energy to Sunja and its young generation.

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For a long time this desire of mine remained… a desire I had for a number of reasons. Then, thanks to a rather coincidental meeting with Alex, who was one of the organisers of the Civil March for Aleppo, we worked out a trip that combined a sort of CMFA revisited and a few meetings to materialise some concrete proposals for future cooperation.  I had previously written a few messages to organise the meetings and the accommodations, and the response was so enthusiastic! So, after an Easter Monday spent around the Karlovac area visiting a few of the families, whom I’ve been taking care of, for years, like Grandma Anka, here below with her delicious home made bread…

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… Alex and I set out for Sunja. How? With any possible means, since the area is not well served with transportation.

 

 

I had done my share of hitchhiking in the past, but it had been a while…

One of the goals of this trip, besides visiting people we already knew, was to be open to new encounters. So, hitchhiking proved to be a fantastic way to meet some amazing people, starting with Dragan, a former UNHCR employee, who’s been trying to set up some agricultural co-op in the area. We talked about war, nationalism and the untapped potential of the land. He was open and sweet, took us for a drink and really wanted to talk some more. I like to think that we made his day and provided some encouragement. Indeed, this area has a lot of potential, but it is also challenging and it is so hard to get anything done. Along the way we noticed landmine signs and broken down buildings with bullet holes, quite a different sight from the touristic Croatia we are used to see on the coast.

On the way to Sunja, we stopped in a small village called Dušica, where exactly on my first day of joining the March, a remarkable deed had happened. The photo below shows us marchers having our lunch break, provided daily by the logistics team who would go ahead and find a suitable spot.

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Because of heavy rains, this time the truck got stuck in the field. After numerous unsuccessful tries of manoeuvring the car out of mud, Alex, Dennis and Kaya, the logistic team, didn’t really know what to do. So, they set out to find help and met Ivo, a big hearted (and big bodied!) farmer who also spoke German and besides pulling the truck out of the mud with his tractor, offered self-made wine, winning everyone’s hearts with the traditional local hospitality.

So, the idea was to find Ivo’s house and thank him once again. With some amazing sense of orientation, and the help of the above pics, Alex traced Ivo’s house, but no one was home. We took time to inquire from all the neighbours, and after waiting for quite a while, we left a note in his mail box and were about to catch a bus when Alex out of the corner of his eye saw the tractor pulling in! We rushed back and Ivo, as if it were the most natural thing to see again some former marchers from the year before, welcomed us in.

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He had just gotten back with his wife and friends from working in their vineyard, so they shared some food and drinks with us. Ivo actually said he didn’t think he would see Alex ever again, so it must have been an amazing surprise! And it meant a lot for me to watch this whole thing unfolding under my very eyes, as I remember being quite impressed by the account Alex gave on my first day of marching and thinking: Hey, I can relate to this! So many times in my life an apparent defeat or setback turned into some positive encounter. 

Eventually, we said goodbye, got on the bus and even managed to catch the last train to Sunja. Jelica picked us up at the train station and took us to her home, truly as guests of honour. We spent the evening talking for a long time, especially to her grand daughter Nikolina, a very bright girl with dreams and aspirations but having to deal with the sad reality that an ever increasing number of young people are leaving and going to build their lives abroad, since the perspective of finding a job is so minimal here. Quite a depressing and pessimistic atmosphere does pervade the town and I was thinking to myself: What would I do in her place?

 

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To be continued…